I really had no intentions of taking on more automotive work, but as you know someone usually comes along and makes it worth your while to start doing again whatever it is that that you used to do. In my case it was in the form of a 4L80E Automatic Transmission in a 4X4 Silverado. Someone else had realized how much of a job these things are soon after they started to attempt the removal process, so I had the vehicle flatbedded to the shop.

The good thing about these types of jobs is that they can be as much of a mental challenge as they are a physical one if you don’t do them everyday - which I don’t – and challenges have been few and far between lately. The down side is getting into something that someone else has started. 

After disconnecting the trans & transfer case from the engine, I removed the assembly in one piece – something I don’t recommend or wouldn’t have attempted if the previous person hadn’t already removed parts in such a way that it only made sense to continue… or so I thought. (Those of you who are slightly more observant might notice the complete lack of a lift in my garage, requiring the use of the ol’ “benchpress” method of transmission removal – made all that much more fun with the transfer case hanging off the back.)

But once it was out, it was a routine task of disassembly and inspection:

Parts is Parts

an inspection that revealed a broken low/reverse band inside the case, coinciding with the customer’s “no reverse” complaint:

Low/Reverse Band

 It was good that I did all my disassembly and measuring prior to ordering anything otherwise we’d have been unnecessarily delayed since a regular overhaul kit doesn’t include this band. Nor does it included a replacement pump Reverse Boost Valve or bushing, which when faulty can cause an uncontrollable over-pressurization situation adversly contributing to this situation. 
[Remember the 5 P's: Proper Planning Prevents Poor Performance.]

I was able to leisurely disassemble the valve body to hone the accumulator cylinders, make some Tech Bulletin related (#264) modifications which included drilling out part of an interior case wall to offer larger exhaust for oil that may cross-leak into the torque signal circuit, and take care of other such misc while waiting for the parts.

Once the parts came in, it was a just matter of re-ringing the existing valve body pistons & putting all of that back together; rebuilding the various clutch assemblies pictured above with bonded pistons (an upgrade from OEM); and overhauling the reaction and output carriers along with the rest of the details that I don’t need to go into here before re-installing it into the truck – separate from the transfer case .

All in all it was a nice little test to keep me occupied in that arena for a short time and the customer was happy.

Have no doubts. Life is good. Family is wonderful. And I stand firm in my faith that something will open up when it needs to.

Love is patient. Love is kind. It does not envy. It does not boast, it is not proud. It is not rude, it is not self-seeking, it is not easily angered, it keeps no record of wrongs. Love does not delight in evil but rejoices with the truth. It always protects, always trusts, always hopes, always perseveres.

1Cor: 4-7

Residual current “backflow” out of the No. 1 [R] alternator terminal is the culprit. In production installations, the factory cures the problem by inducing resistance in this circuit, either via the inherent resistance generated by the tell-tale idiot light “GEN” bulb or by a special, calibrated resistance wire in cars with gauges instead of warning lights.

To perform your own custom installation, splice an inline diode into a 12-gauge wire running to the No. 1 [R] terminal. More reliable than a resistor, a diode will allow the current to flow in only one direction (the electronic equivalent of a one-way check valve). Install the diode so the current can flow toward the No 1 terminal. After shut-off the diode prevents any “backflow.” You can use the alternator diode from the early Chryslers or you should be able to get part number 1N1184 from any decent electronic supply for $1+

As for the two other required wires, run a 10-gauge “always hot” wire to the “BAT” stud terminal and a 10-gauge “always hot” wire to the No. 2 [F] terminal adjacent to the No. 1 terminal. (You can just loop the 10 gauge wire from the No. 2 term to the “BAT” stud for a cleaner appearance, but you’ll lose the remote sensing.)

If you’re converting an older vehicle that’s equipped with the typical GM four-wire external voltage regulator and horn relay-style distribution block and want to minimize any rerouting or new wires, the accompanying schematic shows how to adapt the existing wires to work with the integrated alternator. In this case, the existing idiot light or resistance wire provides the necessary backflow protection.

With rarer three-wire voltage regulators, splice the F and No. 2 voltage regulator wires together and run them to the No. 1 alternator teriminal using the previously mentioned diode, and run the No. 2 wire up to the “BAT” terminal.

To sum it up: The No. 2 wire and BAT wire always run to the battery; the No. 1 wire always runs to the ignition. If the ignition won’t shut off, add a diode.